Le Mondrian

Among the coffee houses of Lyon, Le Mondrian keeps the steady presence regulars come to count on. There is a quiet steadiness to the place, the sense of a room that knows exactly what it is for. The appeal is not complicated: a drink made with some care, somewhere you can stand still for a few minutes. Across France, places like this form the everyday backbone of how people take their coffee.

Drinks are made to be enjoyed rather than photographed, though there is no rule against both. The menu usually stretches past coffee into tea, a few pastries, and whatever the kitchen feels like putting out. It is the kind of place where you can sit a while, and nobody rushes you toward the door.

In Lyon, France, Le Mondrian is the kind of stop that makes more sense the closer you already are. The surrounding blocks give it the steady foot traffic that keeps a coffee counter honest. Find it once and it has a way of becoming part of the route. Part of what a place like this offers is simply somewhere to be for a few minutes, cup in hand. What lingers about spots like this is rarely one drink so much as the run of ordinary good ones.