Little Thanh Da

Among the cafes of Brooklyn, Little Thanh Da keeps the steady presence regulars come to count on. The appeal is not complicated: a drink made with some care, somewhere you can stand still for a few minutes. It does the unglamorous work of being open and being good, day after day, without asking for credit. Across the United States, places like this form the everyday backbone of how people take their coffee.

It is the kind of place where you can sit a while, and nobody rushes you toward the door. What it lacks in polish it tends to make up for in character, which is what keeps regulars coming back. Drinks are made to be enjoyed rather than photographed, though there is no rule against both.

Little Thanh Da is rooted in Brooklyn, drawing the steady mix of locals and visitors any good coffee stop attracts. The location does quiet work, putting good coffee in the path of an ordinary day. It does not demand a pilgrimage, just an open morning and a little curiosity. What lingers about spots like this is rarely one drink so much as the run of ordinary good ones. The coffee stops that last tend to be the ones you stop thinking about and just use, and this reads like one of them.