Meconi's Italian Subs

Set in the heart of Olympia, Meconi's Italian Subs is an unpretentious cafe built for the way people drink coffee here. The appeal is not complicated: a drink made with some care, somewhere you can stand still for a few minutes. It is a fixture more than a destination, and the regulars tend to prefer it that way. Across the United States, places like this form the everyday backbone of how people take their coffee.

The pace is unhurried, the welcome is genuine, and the coffee does its job without making a fuss. Drinks are made to be enjoyed rather than photographed, though there is no rule against both. What it lacks in polish it tends to make up for in character, which is what keeps regulars coming back.

In Olympia, Meconi's Italian Subs is the kind of stop that makes more sense the closer you already are. The surrounding blocks give it the steady foot traffic that keeps a coffee counter honest. Either way, it is an easy one to find and a fair one to seek out. What lingers about spots like this is rarely one drink so much as the run of ordinary good ones. The coffee stops that last tend to be the ones you stop thinking about and just use, and this reads like one of them.