Mimi's Teriyaki

Step inside Mimi's Teriyaki, an independent coffee house in central Tacoma, and the pace of the day eases by a notch. It does the unglamorous work of being open and being good, day after day, without asking for credit. There is a quiet steadiness to the place, the sense of a room that knows exactly what it is for. Across the United States, places like this form the everyday backbone of how people take their coffee.

Expect the easy, unforced character of an independent spot: coffee made without ceremony and a room that fills with regulars. It is the kind of place where you can sit a while, and nobody rushes you toward the door. Drinks are made to be enjoyed rather than photographed, though there is no rule against both.

Mimi's Teriyaki anchors its small patch of Tacoma, well within reach of anyone exploring the area on foot. Where it sits says a lot about who drops in: commuters, regulars, and the occasional wanderer. Drop in when you are nearby; it rewards the unplanned visit as much as the deliberate one. What lingers about spots like this is rarely one drink so much as the run of ordinary good ones. Part of what a place like this offers is simply somewhere to be for a few minutes, cup in hand.