Restaurante Self Service

There is a version of Betim that runs on places like Restaurante Self Service, a neighborhood cafe that keeps the morning moving. It is the kind of address that rarely makes a best-of list, and that is precisely why the people nearby treat it as their own. It does the unglamorous work of being open and being good, day after day, without asking for credit. It is one stop in the broader coffee culture of Brazil, the kind that reveals itself one neighborhood at a time.

What it lacks in polish it tends to make up for in character, which is what keeps regulars coming back. Drinks are made to be enjoyed rather than photographed, though there is no rule against both. Expect the easy, unforced character of an independent spot: coffee made without ceremony and a room that fills with regulars.

In Betim, Brazil, Restaurante Self Service is the kind of stop that makes more sense the closer you already are. The surrounding blocks give it the steady foot traffic that keeps a coffee counter honest. Whether you plan around it or stumble onto it, it tends to leave a good impression. What lingers about spots like this is rarely one drink so much as the run of ordinary good ones.